Saturday 6 April 2013

A canal with a difference

3/4/13
We seem to have a bit of a water theme going this week - the Seine yesterday, and today the Canal Saint-Martin - but it's really just that we want to make the most of the lovely weather and enjoy some outdoor activities while we can. Who knows when it will be back to cold, grey, wet or even snowy!!!
Today our plan is to hop on the Canauxrama cruise up the canal, leaving from the nearby Port de l'Arsenal marina just down the street from the Place de la Bastille.
The beautiful sunny morning couldn't manage to stick around any longer and by the time we get on board the weather has changed and a cold (colder.....!) front has blown in. But we still choose to sit on the top deck so as to enjoy the trip and the view as much as possible before the weather sends us below deck.


There's a lot of history around this canal, which was built by order of Napoleon I between 1806 and 1825. The first part of the cruise takes us under the voûte du temple et de la Bastille, an underground vault that goes for 2km right under the Place de la Bastille and beyond. The oldest part of this vault dates to 1835, so was obviously built over the open canal some time later. It's an eerie experience traveling along an underground canal, although there are ventilation shafts every few metres which allow in the natural light and fresh air from the boulevard above. Towards the end of the tunnel, a Japanese artist has installed a light show on the walls, which is accompanied by rousing classical music and is a lovely experience. The rest of the way, we are regaled by Edith Piaf and Charles Aznavour, and it all feels very Parisian!!


On our way to the end of the line at Parc de la Villette in the north-east of Paris, we pass through 4 double locks so that we can rise by 25 metres from the start of the cruise (at Seine river level) to the end. I don't think I've ever been on a canal before let alone one with locks. It's actually quite exciting going into each lock, waiting for the gates to close behind us, then watching the sluices open and the water come pouring in to raise the level in the lock so we can pass through. We have a great view of it all from the top deck.


There are footbridges over the canal at each lock, and people gather to watch the process and wave to the boat. One little boy is very excited and pulls on his grandmother's arm as soon as the lock gates begin to open. He wants to race the boat and so she runs with him up the side of the canal until she's too puffed to go any further - that's the sort of granny my sons had when they were little xoxo :-)


It's a very enjoyable journey over a couple of hours even though eventually the icy wind forces us inside where it's cosy but we still have a great view. This is the canal that we walked last week, which gave us a great perspective from above.
The trip ends at Bassin de la Villette from where it's just a quick journey home on the Metro after a lovely and historically interesting afternoon.

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