After a lovely unexpected Skype with my wonderful husband this morning (unexpected because he's been out of mobile phone range this weekend) today my plan is to explore the Latin Quarter, that area of the Left Bank so called because, according to my "friends" from the Lonely Planet guide, conversation between students and professors in this area was in Latin until the time of the French Revolution. Ok, but I intend to find one street in particular, called Rue Mouffetard, which is described as a "thriving market street" and something of a local "mecca" (not very Latin really). So, LP guides, thanks for the tip, I'm heading there today.
It's cold again this morning, but the grey sky seems a little higher and the forecast is actually for a sunny afternoon - however I'm not hopeful at this point!! Nevertheless, I set off down the now-familiar Boulevard Henri IV to Pont de Sully and across towards Ile St Louis. This time, though, I keep going all the way to the Left Bank, past the Institut du Monde Arabe (the Institute of the Arab World, which I've heard is worth a visit) and then along Boulevard St-Germain to Place Maubert. From there I take Rue de la Montagne Ste-Genevieve (can you imagine having to spell that street name too often???) which winds slowly uphill to Rue Descartes, and in turn becomes Rue Mouffetard. The street narrows, and then restaurants start to appear, many advertising fondue and "la raclette" as their specialty dishes. Both of these have been recommended by a colleague as authentic "not to be missed" experiences, preferably to be tried in the area of origin, but in case I don't happen to get to those places, I'm excited to have found the perfect Parisian substitute!! I'm looking forward to sharing these dishes with my lovely husband xoxo
A little further on the street narrows again and becomes pedestrian-only and I'm not disappointed. In fact I'm enchanted by this lovely cobbled street with it's array of enticing shops - bread, pastries, cheese, chocolate, tea, meat, fruit and vegetables, fish and seafood - the sights and smells are wonderful. It's really a market street and I thoroughly enjoy wandering.
I pass a shop with a vertical rotisserie outside packed with chickens roasting and dripping their juices onto a tray of potatoes baking underneath - the smell is amazing!!
Eventually I get to the bottom of the hill and the end of the street, and I could keep going on to my next location, but I haven't had enough of this experience. So I turn around and walk back up the street, and then gradually downhill again, savouring the sights and smells and planning a return visit with my husband in a few weeks :-)
The route I've mapped out this morning takes me back via the Jardin des Plantes, which looks like it would be a lovely spot to stroll and picnic on a warmer day, and also houses the Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes (in other words a zoo!!), which may also be fun. However, this morning the chill wind is not making for a pleasant outing in the gardens, so apart from stopping to see the Bennet's Wallabies (I tell them to hop over here and say "G'day" to a fellow Aussie, but they're totally disinterested), I continue back to the apartment to thaw out and have some lunch.
I've decided to brave the potential crowds this afternoon and visit Notre Dame. I know it could be ugly but if I get there and the queue is unbearable then I'll simply move on to somewhere else. It's the outside that's most impressive anyway. I set off down Henri IV again and wander towards Il de la Cité via Île St-Louis and finally arrive at the back of the cathedral. It's definitely a beautiful and huge building. Before going around to the front I make a detour to have a look at Pont de l'Archevêche, one of two bridges in Paris where you can see the Paris "love locks", padlocks placed on the bridge by couples who want to declare their undying love and their intention to return to Paris. Call me a romantic but I like it :-)
So now to see if I can get into the cathedral without too much of a hassle. There is a queue but it appears to be moving quickly so I join the end and in about 5 minutes I'm removing my hat and heading inside. I follow the crowd, which is actually not too bad. The inside of Notre Dame is lovely but I don't think it's better than Westminster Abbey or even some of the lovely cathedrals I've seen in Italy. I sit for a while and wonder what God thinks about all the hoo-haa, it's hard to imagine that He is impressed.
Outside in the square there is a large stadium seating area that wasn't there when I last visited and I think it's because the cathedral is celebrating 850 years. It's rather horrible and I hope it's only temporary but it does make a great spot to get a good photo from on high!
From here I wander along the Seine past some of the little stalls by the river that the vendors have opened up today - not all of them, I guess the weather isn't kind enough yet. I make my way through Place du Louvre and out into Place du Carrousel towards the impressive pyramid that marks the entrance to the Musée du Louvre.
The Place isn't too crowded and the queue not too long but I'm not going in today.
I wander on, my next stop the Place des Vosges where my LP friends have recommended Café Hugo. As yet I haven't sat in a café by myself but I'm going to give it a try this afternoon, lonely or not! I order hot chocolate and crêpes maison au chocolat - mmmm!! It is a bit lonely and I do wish my gorgeous husband was here with me but it's warm and cosy and the crêpes are delicious so I enjoy the experience anyway.
Time to head home and out of the cold. On the way I see some gendarmes with impressive weapons and riot gear in the Place de la Bastille and there is a demonstration of some sort in the street. The riot gear is enough for me, I'm not hanging around (well only long enough to get a couple of photos anyway) ;-)
I've been in Paris for a week! Still so much to see and do :-)
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